9/17/14

zaleti—or gialletti—according to Artusi

Now here's a favorite sweet little recipe of mine: zaleti or zalleti or zaletti or zaèti... even gialletti, as named by Pellegrino Artusi's in his "manual" La Scienza in Cucina e l'Arte di Mangiar Bene: a joyous compilation of recipes from the many regions of Italy published by Artusi himself in 1891, having found no takers in the publishing world. Of course today it can be found in just about every Italian kitchen.

Zaleti is one of those innumerable simple, scrumptious Italian dolcetti. Chocked full of cornmeal, this quite antique recipe hails from the Veneto region (they love their polenta up there) and is traditionally served during Carnavale, a glass of Prosecco della Valdobbiadene quite often within reach. Not for the light hearted: they are rich, intense and quite yellow (giallo).

Speaking of cornmeal—or polenta or farina di mais or farina di grano turco—there are Italian artisan offerings that are beautifully whole grain and stone milled, made from Marano,  a cultivar of corn with reddish-orange cobsknown for its distinctive "polenta" flavor, aroma and texture: hearty, deep and creamy—that hails from the same Veneto region, selectively breed back in the early 1900s. I've grown quite partial to cooking with these whole-grain Italian farina di mais, bringing them back from Italy on my not-often-enough trips there or stocking up on them here in Paris at my favorite Italian épicérie.

There's whole-grain farina di mais "bramata"—a fine cornmeal—full of lovely reddish-brown speckles. I bought a bunch of it from Azienda Agricola Lorentoni in Spoleto on my last visit. Then there's whole-grain farina di mais "rustica"—a much coarser cornmeal—also full of lovely reddish-brown speckles, from Tenuta Castello in the provence of Vercelli, Piedmonte, which Alessandra stocks on the shelves of her wonderful—and my favorite—Italian épicérie RAP in Paris' 9th arrondissement though you'd think you'd just stumbled into it off a winding narrow cobblestone street in some remote Italian village.

In the States, Bob's Red Mill carries a whole-grain cornmeal, though probably not ground from Marano corn. And here's a list from Gourmet of Italian markets in NY that might carry something akin. Perhaps also Eataly, though on their website I found only a polenta with mushrooms and truffles in the mix.Tenuta Castello seems to have a shop on line option. Tibiona is another site in Italy that sells lovely farina di mais. Perhaps Rainbow Grocery in San Francisco.... and I'm sure with a bit of sleuthing, there are many more possibilities.

A little side here... for anyone of French persuasion, here's a petition that truly deserves to be signed: pour un nouveau statut juridique de l'animal.

And now without further ado...la ricetta.

— zaleti made with fine whole-grain stone milled corn flour
 — zaleti made with coarse whole-grain stone milled corn flour
— farina di mais rustica from Tenuta Castello


ZALETI alla “Artusi” - makes 15 - 20
adapted from on a recipe in: la Scienza in cucina e l’Arte di mangiar bene by Pellegrino Artusi (one of  many variations on the subject)

300 gr || 10.5 oz fine, medium or coarse ground corn meal (depending on the crunch you want)
150 gr ||  5.3 oz unbleached white flour (in France, I use T65 or T80—see below  ||  or substitute brown rice flour for a gluten-free version)
150 gr ||  5.3 oz blond cane sugar (if you wish it a bit less sweet, try 125 gr)
200 gr ||  7 oz unsalted butter, just out of the refrigerator (or 100 gr butter + 75 ml extra-virgin olive oil, or 165 ml olive oil)
100 gr ||  3.5 oz Sultana raisins
Grappa (or white rum)
2 eggs
50 gr || 1.75 oz almonds, blanched and slivered lengthwise
Zest of 1 lemon
Pinch of salt

|||  Soften the raisins in a bit of Grappa for 30 minutes. Strain and squeeze the raisins dry.
|||  Preheat the oven to 180 ˚C (375 ˚F)
|||  Mix together the two flours along with a pinch of salt. Cut the butter into small pieces and incorporate completely into the flour with your hands, rubbing the mixture between them until "sandy". If using olive oil, start by stirring it in then let your hands take over, always striving for that sandy texture, not clumped together.
|||  Whisk together the egg and sugar until turning pale yellow and fluffing a bit. Stir into the flour mixture. Add the raisins, lemon zest and almond slivers.
|||  Form into small balls (the size of a golf ball or smaller if you wish) and flatten out slightly on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper, giving a bit of breathing room between each ball—they don't spread much.
|||  Bake in the oven approx 15 minutes, until turning golden. Gently transfer to a rack to cool. Can be kept in a glass jar for a week... maybe a bit more.

notes:
— If substituting brown rice flour and using butter add an extra 20 gr || 0,7 oz. If using olive oil add an extra 10 ml.
— If substituting olive oil, let the final mixture sit for 15 minutes so the cornmeal can soak it up, which it will, making a firmer "ball-rolling" dough. 
— I never buy blanched almonds; it's really quite easy to blanch them yourself. inevitably they'll be fresher and tastier. Here's how to proceed: Drop into a pan of boiling water for 1 minute seconds. Drain and let cool just long enough to be able to handle. Squeeze the fat end of each almond between your fingers, holding the palm of your other hand out in front to catch it.
flour:
— In France there are many flour "types," each determined by the ash or mineral content (or amount of bran) in the flour. T45 is white-white pastry flour—found in all your favorite croissants; T55 is all purpose flour—in all those "airy" white French baguettes; T65 is just slightly dark (or "grey") and is used in the baguette tradition; T80 is a bit darker and could be called "half-wheat" flour; T110 is darker yet, and finally T150 is wholemeal or whole wheat flour. The higher numbered flour types are traditionally used for specialty breads.

6/30/14

upcoming "come get some dirt under your nails" workshops


On the heels of our April 2014, first edition "Come Get Some Dirt Under Your Nails"  cooking workshop in Provence, Giuseppina of Venice in Provence Cooking School in Goult and myself of la Cucina di TerrESa in Paris are putting together a new series of culinary workshops at Giuseppina's cooking school in Goult, in Provence over the coming seasons.

We'll be wandering again in nature, learning more about wildcrafting, forever admiring the flowers and wild herbs. Foraging for ever more wild edibles and turning all their earthy goodness into yet more amazing meals. And we'd love for you to  join us and "come get some dirt under your nails" during one of our workshops!

 — Saturday, October 11 - Friday, October 17, 2014
Baskets of wild mushrooms, autumn squash, roots and chicories

 — Saturday, 29 November - Friday, December 5, 2014
Nosing for truffles

Tuesday, January 20 - Saturday, January 24, 2015
Olive harvest, "new" olive oil

Saturday, March 21 - Friday, March 27, 2015
Gathering wild spring edibles: leaf and flower and stem

Our cooking classes are centered around wildcrafting and local seasonal produce, featuring seasonal dishes that "celebrate the vegetable kingdom”—though classes are not strictly vegetarian: upon request a simple meat or fish dish can be included in mealtime menus, but will not be part of the recipes taught. All dishes taught are inspired by Provençal and regional Italian cuisine, as well as our own creative seasonal additions.

Please scroll down for information on the school, teachers, what's included, prices and payment, etc.

For more information on specific workshops, as well as for bookings, please contact Giuseppina or Terresa.



The Venice in Provence cooking school is located in the village of Goult. Perched on the top of the hill, it offers a magnificent view of the surrounding mountains and villages. It comes complete with an authentic Provençal garden and meandering olive grove. Goult is a charming village situated between Gordes, Menerbes and Bonnieux, in the centre of what is known as the “Golden Triangle.”

A bit off the beaten path, it has managed to preserve its authentic village life. The Café de la Poste, just off the town square, is where locals and visitors alike meet. English newsprint is on sale inside. The main street, rue de la Republique, is lined with small boutiques: a brocante, wine shop, corner food store, butcher, baker…

I'll be teaching these workshops with Giuseppina Mabilia, at her cooking school in Goult. Here's a bit about her, in her own words :

"I was born near Venice: my roots, my culture, everything I am comes from there. I stumbled on Provence some years ago, fell in love with the land and I decided to stay. That brought on a real change to my life.
My greatest passion has always been cooking. One day someone asked if I could cook for them during their holidays. That’s how my story began. Today I'm a well-known personal chef in the Luberon and I’d love to share with you everything I’ve learned and experimented through these years: cooking delicious, elegant and tasteful recipes that highlight the gorgeous ingredients of the region with a touch of Italian lifestyle. I’m also very engaged in using local ingredients. My primary sources for food are local farmers, les marchés paysans, and what I call “my supernatural market:” wildcrafting in nature.

As for me, Terresa, I'm always on a mission to undress vegetables, which I've been doing since 2008 during my vegetable cooking classes in my cozy kitchen in Paris, where wanderlust brought me many a year ago.
If you've been following my blog, you know that for me it's all about coaxing the sublime flavors from the local produce I procure from marketplaces across the city and mingling them with other artisan ingredients—as close to their pristine selves as possible—to create delightful dishes of layered textures, savors and colors that will sing on the plate and palate. Nothing too fancy, as “down-to-earth” is my touchstone, reflected in the inspiration I draw from the inventive flare of Italy's rustic regional cuisine and its many medieval recipes that I've gleaned over the years.

Prices and payment :
— Tuition is 1850 euros per person. A 40% non-refundable deposit is required at the time of reservation. Classes are limited to 8 students. If we must cancel the program for any reason, we will refund all fees and deposits in full. Related travel costs will not be reimbursed.

— Paypal is our preferred method of payment, as it is both safe, easy to use, and allows for payment in your local currency. A request for payment will be sent to you through Paypal at the time of your registration.

What's included :
— 1 to 2 cooking classes each day.
— Outings each day (wildcrafting, farmers’ markets, artisan cheese producers, natural wine vineyards). We will have a mini-bus at our disposal for these excursions so that we can all travel together.
— All lunches and dinners except for one evening, which will be a free night for participants to do as they wish.
— Café-croissant breakfasts in the local bistrot
— Beverages (mineral water, coffee, tea, herbal tea) during the classes. Natural wine from the Luberon and Ardéche regions with all meals, specifically chosen for each menu.
— Recipes from the classes in PDF form, list of the wines and related links, as well as any information gleaned throughout the week to be sent in a follow-up email to the class.
— Pick up and drop off at the Avignon TGV train station if coming by train from Paris. There will be one pick up and drop off scheduled for each workshop (train information sent upon reservation).
— For those arriving on earlier or later trains, there is bus service from the TGV station to Goult. Tickets are 2 euros (bus information and schedule sent upon request), with pick up at the bus stop in Goult.
— For those preferring to rent a car, there are rental agencies at the TGV train station, as well (driving directions to the cooking school sent upon request).

What’s not included
— Train tickets to the Avignon TGV train station.
— Lodging for the week. Upon reservation, a list of accommodations in the village (B&Bs, hotels, small apartments) will be sent to you, as well as any further information needed to help make booking as simple as possible.

Legal liability
— Students must sign a legal waiver (standard to the industry) upon arrival freeing Giuseppina, Terresa and their staff from any legal liability. We assume no liability for injury, delay, inconvenience, irregularity, loss or damage to person or property or additional cost resulting directly or indirectly from the following causes: fire, acts of government, thefts, delays, cancellations or for any other events over which we have no control.
— No refunds will be given for any excursions or meals a participant misses or decides not to take.

Travel Insurance
:
— We recommend that you purchase separate travel insurance in the event you must cancel your trip, as well as accident and health insurance, baggage and personal effects loss or damage.




6/19/14

wedding fare en Haute Provence

Just back from a wedding en Haute Provence. Weather like you might dream of. Landscape like you might dream of. Love like you might dream of. Old friends, new friends like you might dream of. Bref... a precious celebration of the union of two dear souls.

I arrived, of course, with bags full of kitchen goods and ingredients that were met by crates of freshly picked vegetables from a neighboring farm, and spent a delightful day cooking up many a savory nibble for the reception feast. And this with the indispensable help of a wonderful group of jolly women, hands eager to the tasks I administered—hopefully with gentle sway.

There were mounds of almonds to be blanched, mounds of beet greens to be wilted, mounds of cherry tomatoes to be cut in half, mounds of carrots and zucchini to be diced, mounds of walnuts to be cracked, mounds of garlic to be chopped, mounds of Borlotto beans from Basilicata to be soaked and slowly cooked, mounds of fresh herbs to be leafed, mounds of flour to be rubbed with olive oil, kneaded into a fine dough and rolled out into even finer sheets. Polenta to be stirred and stirred and stirred, Parmigiano-Reggiano to be grated, and so on... 

Last to be called to life was focaccia, which had to be cooked in an oven a few paces up the road just as the guests were arriving from the wedding ceremony. By the time I returned with the first pipping-hot batch, most everything else had literally been inhaled. I'd planned on photographing for posterity the many dishes... In the end I managed snapping a few shots of les restes (the leftovers). Actually I found quite titillating to the eye the concluding haphazard arrangement of the plates and bowls of much devoured nibbles.

I promised to send the gals who rolled up their sleeves with me in the kitchen the various recipes we spun into existence. Thought I'd share them here with you, as well.

recipes in previous posts :

recipes down below :
fresh shell bean salad  ::   polenta squares w/ zucchini-lemon chutney


A word about the Borlotti (also known as cranberry) beans I cooked up. Alessandra, a dear woman with a heart of gold and as generous as is her passion for all things truly earthen, owns and runs a tiny Italian boutique—the type you'd stumble into in an off-the-beaten-path village anywhere in Italy—RAP Paris, stocked from floor to ceiling with the most delectable artisan fare from every region, nook and cranny in that gastronomic country (read David Lebovitz's post on her store.... I took him there one day to indulge in her vision and offerings).

L'épicerie RAP is just down the hill from Montmartre in the 9th arrondissement, and as I was in search of fresh shell beans for my spring/summer wedding salad, I paid her a visit thinking she might have a tip or two as to where I could find a few kilos—it not yet quite being shell-bean season. Alas, she could point me nowhere, but, it so happens, she did have a producer from Basilicata who had recently contacted her and was sending her off a few kilos of lovingly dried fagiolo borlotto from last year's harvest, still plump with moisture, and in tow a small bag of fagiolo tondino nero, a compact black heirloom bean bursting with flavor. If they arrived in time, she wanted me to take them down south the following week and test them for her. Well they did arrive on time, and I did take them down south, and I did test them for her, and they were absolutely marvelous. So fresh in their dried form that not one bean fell apart during cooking—which I did at a "heat-diffused" simmer and yet which took no time at all: the fresher the dried bean, the more moisture it contains, and the quicker it cooks—tout simplement.

The salad was of course a great success, each bean giving a burst of crunchy texture and creamy depth. I thank Alessandra from the bottom of my heart for her lovely gift!
 

FRESH SHELL-BEAN SALAD — serves 6 to 8

700 | 25 oz fresh shell beans, in shell : Borlotti, Michelet, Paimpol, or other… (or 400 gr | 14 oz dried beans)
1 FRESH bay leaf
1 garlic clove, slightly crushed
1 lemon
4 – 5 sprigs flat parsley
20 cherry tomatoes
1 celery heart, with light green leaves
1 small red onion
1 - 2 large handfuls fresh basil leaves
Unrefined coarse and fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper
Parmigiano-Reggiano shavings for garnish

|||  Shuck the beans (best to soak in cold water for 4 – 6 hours). Drain and place in a large pan with water to cover by 3 cm | 1 inch. Add the garlic clove and bay leaf. Cover and bring to a boil then cook covered over low heat, at a light simmer, until nicely al dente, 15 – 25 minutes depending on the bean. Test at 15 minutes—they should have a “crunch” to them. Remove from the heat and add a couple pinches of coarse sea salt. Let sit for a minute, test for seasoning, add a bit more salt if necessary and let sit for another minute. Drain, remove the bay leaf and garlic then transfer to a large bowl. Add a couple generous drizzles of olive oil and gently stir. Add a couple squeezes of lemon juice and gently stir again. Let cool to room temperature. (If using dried beans, soak over night. Drain, rinse and transfer to the pan with water to cover by  6 cm | 2 inches. Add the garlic clove and bay leaf, cover and bring to a boil. Cook over very low heat (even using a heat diffuser), with the lid ajar, until al dente—check the directions on the package for an idea of the cooking time, though cooking with a heat diffuser will increase the time. Let stand in their cooking water for a good 10 minutes before draining.)

|||  While the beans are cooking, zest the lemon. Chop the celery heart crosswise into thin slices, and the leaves into bite-sized pieces. Very thinly slice the red onion lengthwise. Cut the cherry tomatoes in half lengthwise. Coarsely chop the parsley. Add the vegetables, lemon zest and basil leaves to the beans when cool, and gently stir. Taste for seasoning, adding a bit more salt and/or lemon juice and/or olive oil if desired. Let sit for 30 minutes for the flavors to infuse.  

|||  Garnish with Parmigiano shavings, if desired. Give a few generous twists of the black pepper grinder and serve.


POLENTA SQUARES w/ ZUCCHINI-LEMON CHUTNEY — makes approx. 50 squares

note : This recipe uses traditional, not instant, polenta. I find the texture of the cooked traditional polenta to be far superior. If using the instant stuff, follow the cooking instructions on the package.

for the polenta :
200 gr | 7 oz traditional polenta (not instant)
800 ml cold water
Generous handful Parmigiano-Reggiano, freshly grated (optional)
Extra virgin olive oil
2.5 gr | 1/3 tsp unrefined sea salt
Zest of 1/2 lemon
1 sprig fresh thyme, leafed (flowering, if in spring or early summer)

for the "chutney" :
175 gr | 6 oz Gorgonzola
1 smallish zucchini (approx 175 gr | 6 oz) cut into small dice
50 gr | 1.75 oz walnuts o|oz (best if freshly cracked), coarsely chopped
1 lemon for curlicues
1 sprig fresh thyme, leafed (flowering, if in spring or early summer)
Extra virgin olive oil
Unrefined sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

|||  Scrub and dry the lemon. Using a vegetable peeler, remove the zest lengthwise in long strips. With a sharp paring knife, cut off any pith from the zest then slice lengthwise into very thin strips. (Feel free to use a citrus peeler.) Spread out in/on a thick- bottomed baking recipient and bake in the oven preheated to 100 ˚C (200 ˚ F), the door ajar, until the lemon strips begin to curl, 10 - 15 minutes. Shake the pan from time to time and keep a close eye… you don’t want them to begin to brown or dry out, they should remain soft. Cut each curlicue in half or thirds. (You can also cut the lemon strips the night before and just leave them spread out on a plate until morning. They will curl beautifully. Cover until ready to use later in the day. Can be kept in an airtight glass jar for 3 - 4 days.) Watch my youtube video...

|||  Bring the 800 ml of cold water to a boil in a covered pan. Add the coarse sea salt and a slight drizzle of olive oil. Add the polenta in a slow, continuous stream, stirring constantly with a whisk to prevent lumps from forming. When the polenta returns to a boil, turn the heat to VERY low (best to use a heat diffuser over a small flame) and cook uncovered for 40 minutes, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon to keep a crust from forming on top, but avoid scraping up the bottom of the pan. If the polenta becomes too dry, add a small glass of hot water. At the end, add a drizzle of olive oil, the lemon zest, thyme leaves, and a generous handful of grated Parmigiano, if using. Stir well.

|||  Line the large jelly roll pans (two should be enough) you'll be using for the polenta with parchment paper, brushing a smidge of olive oil underneath the paper to hold it in place. Pour in enough hot polenta to attain a heighth of 1 cm / 1/4 inch when spread out evenly—best done by brushing the top with olive oil. Set aside to cool for a good couple of hours, even over night in the refrigerator, just take out 2 hours before continuing the recipe.

|||  Turn on the oven broiler.
|||  Cut into 3,5-cm | 1.5-inch squares (a pizza cutter makes this step easy). Place a knob of Gorgonzola in the center of each square.  Top with a four-finger pinch of the zucchini “chutney.” Broil on an oven rack placed 7 cm | 6 – 8 inches from the broiler, until the Gorgonzola is melting and the chutney golden-tipped, 5 – 7 minutes. Remove from the oven and season immediately with sea salt to taste. Let cool slightly then garnish with freshly ground black pepper, and perhaps a tiny pinch of sea salt, before serving.



5/19/14

time for tops : spring green tops

If there's a time for tops—green tops : beet, turnip, radish, carrot and the like tops—it is spring ! The producers I frequent at my favorite marketplaces always see me coming and fill my bag with top from the fresh bunches of turnips, beets, etc. that most of their clients ask then to chop off. Into the trash they normally go—such a shame—when I am dearly fond of them ! So out of the trash they come and home with me to become erbazzone, soup, pesto... The very baby ones might get tossed into a salad.

Most recently I've been making something called rocciata, which I discovered while visiting a friend in Umbria. This traditional rustic recipe comes in two flavors: sweet and savory (both easily vegan). I'm sharing the savory one with you today; next week the sweet one. All rolled up inside a tender pastry dough, your spring green tops are right at home.

I find the concentrated taste of all those chlorophyll filled greens are wonderfully accompanied by a nice natural rosé wine, such as Jean-François Chéné's (la Coulée d'Ambrosia) Panier de fruits or Jean-Luc and Isabelle's (Domaine Jolly-Ferriol) Joly Rosé.

I recently read this article by Dan Barber, co-owner of Blue Hill, in the opinion pages of the NYTimes about "engaging in the nuts and bolts of true agricultural sustainability." Quite generous, eye-opening, humbling and inspiring...


ROCIATTA con l'ERBE – 4 to 8 persons
an adaptation...

dough :
200 gr unbleached pastry flour (or a mixture or unbleached and wholewheat)
45 ml extra virgin olive oil
100 ml warm water
10 gr Parmigiano, freshly grated (optional)

filling :
500 gr greens (any and all tops, Swiss chard, spinach, tender kale, dandelion, mustard... make up a seasonal mixture if you like)
1 lemon for zest
3 - 4 sprigs flat parsley, coarsely chopped
2 sprigs fresh mint, coarsely chopped (or wild fennel, cilantro, or whatever else might be in season and inspires you)
20 gr Parmigiano, freshly grated (optional)
1 small garlic clove (optional), cut in half, the sprout removed and coarsely chopped
Tiny pinch crushed red pepper flakes (optional) 
Extra virgin olive oil
Unrefined sea salt

|||  Sift the flour and a pinch of salt into a bowl. Add the Parmigiano, if using. Work the olive oil into the flour mixture. Add the warm water and stir to combine. (if not using Parmigiano, start with a bit less water, say 90 ml). The dough should be just shy of sticky. Pour out onto a floured surface and knead for a couple three minutes, until the dough is pliable and bounces back when you press your finger into it. Cover with a glass bowl and set aside for 30 minutes.

|||  Wash your greens and shake them off a bit. Transfer to a large skillet, add a splash of water if needed—just enough to wet the bottom of the skillet. Cover and cook over medium-high heat until just wilted, 2 - 4 minutes, depending on the green, and turning the whole bunch once. (You'll probably need to do this in two batches.) Transfer to a calendar to drain then spread out to cool. When cool enough squeeze out any excess water and chop finely. (I never throw the drained or squeezed cooking water out... make for a great glass of "water" if you're thirsty, or as part of a broth.)

|||  Preheat the oven to 180 ˚C (375 ˚F).
Heat a generous drizzle of olive oil in the skillet used for wilting the greens, rinsed out and dried. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes if using. Add the greens and cook over medium heat for a minute. Remove the skillet from the heat and stir in the Parmigiano, if using, parsley, herbs, and a generous pinch of lemon zest. (If not using Parmigiano, add a good drizzle of olive oil to the mixture.)
Season with sea salt to taste. Stir to combine. Set aside.

|||  Give the dough a couple kneads on a floured surface then roll out into a rectangle quite thin. (You can also cut the dough in half and make two rolls.) Spread the filling evenly over the surface, keeping it a bit in from the side edges and from one end. Gently roll up (not too tightly) keeping the overlapping end underneath. Pinch the side edges together and place the roll on a baking sheet (lined with a piece of parchment paper if you wish). Bake in the oven for approx 25 minutes, until turning lightly golden.

|||  Let cool before slicing up. Garnish with freshly ground pepper. Pour a glass of natural rosé wine and enjoy !

spring harvest à Paris : strawberries—the littler gals


The prized GARIGUETTE is a treat to behold in your mouth. An early French variety of strawberry, it starts showing up at marketplaces in Paris toward the end of April...mid-May, its presence exhaling spring in all her glory. The MARA des BOIS, a close "sister," follows on her heels and is available all summer. Both are sweet as can be, and petite... just a nibble the size of a caramel. A real delight in the world of "expanding" fruit: oranges will soon achieve the size of grapefruit, apples already have...presque. Apricots are on the way to taking over the dimensions of peaches which are themselves gaining on the territory of apples and so on. Seems they've even come up with a new hybrid of the Mara des Bois, half then again as large—Miss Charlotte—supposedly to replace the littler gal for its profitability. So much for sweetness being "in the little things of life." So get out there while you can and plop a few Gariguettes or Mara des Bois into your mouth !

5/12/14

cooking gnocchi of a spring day

I made this festive dish of gnocchi with garden peas for a recent cooking class...to the delight of all. And in keeping with my tradition of trying to "waste nothing," I taught them how to cook the pods and turn them into a simple delicious purée, which I learned years ago from Toni Vianello, of l'Osteria fame (that great "hole-in-the-wall" Italian restaurant in the Marais, which he unfortunately sold).

We drank a lovely bottle of Epidote (100% Sauvignon blanc) from one of my favorite winemakers in the Loire Valley, Joel Courtault, full of sparkly mineral tones and soft fruit. It was a great accompaniment.


POTATO GNOCCHI with GARDEN PEAS - serves 8

1 kg potatoes (Charlotte, Russet, Bintje, Ditta—floury with minimum water content—not newly harvested as the sugars won't have had time to turn into starch with the result that your gnocchi will be gummy and even fall apart)
1 egg, lightly beaten
200 gr || 7 oz unbleached flour flour (T65 in France) 

800 gr || 28 oz fresh peas in their pods
6 – 8 cloves fresh spring garlic
4 -5 spring red onions
10 – 12 fresh mint leaves
Zest of 1 lemon
1 FRESH bay leaf
Unrefined sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Extra-virgin olive oil
Parmigiano-Reggiano, freshly grated (optional)

|||  Wash and zest the lemon. Spread the zest out on a plate to dry for 1 – 2 hours.

|||  Shuck the peas and wash the pods. Set the peas aside. Place the pods in a pan. Add cold water to almost cover, place the lid and bring to a boil then cook uncovered at a gentle simmer for 20 minutes. Strain and set the cooking water aside. Pass the pods through a food mill and reserve the purée that collects under the sieve and in the bowl. Set aside—you'll be using a bit in the sauce, the rest can be seasoned with a pinch of salt, some good olive oil then warm spread on pieces of toast.

|||  Preheat the oven to 200 ˚C (400 ˚F) and bake the potatoes in their skin until easily pierced with a knife (depending on size 0 – 60 minutes). Peel while hot and pass through a ricer into a large bowl.

|||  Make a well in the center of the riced potatoes and add the beaten egg. Begin to gently mix, cutting with a wooden spatula from the edges inward, lifting as you go. The idea is not to “work” the dough, which turns it tough. Add small amounts of flour at a time, sifting it through a sieve and gently cutting it into the potatoes. The flour doesn’t need to be completely incorporated. Begin to test the dough for stickiness after having added 100 - 125 gr flour. The dough should be just shy of sticky—you don’t want it too dry. And not to worry if the first time you don't succeed...it does take a bit of getting acquainted with

|||  Pour the dough out onto a floured surface and gently gather together into a seamless ball. Cut off a small portion of the dough (a good handful), form into a seamless baby ball then gently roll into a log (2.5-cm or 1-inch diameter) on a floured surface. Cut into 1-inch long pieces. Place each gnocchi on the backside of fork tings, press your index finger slightly into the center to create a little well and either rapidly roll it toward you down the tings or pick it up along the cut edges and press it slightly to curve it. The well helps the gnocchi cook more evenly and hold the sauce. Transfer to a piece of cardboard, small cutting board or flimsy baking sheet whose surface has been generously floured. Continue with the rest of the dough. Set aside to dry for 30 – 40 minutes. At this point you can either cook them immediately or place them in the refrigerator, covered with a kitchen towel, until ready to use. They will keep for 24 hours, but best cooked up the same day.

|||  Put a large deep pan of water on to boil. When the water comes to a boil, generously salt (6 - 8 gr per liter or 1 heaping teaspoon per liter of water). When the water returns to a boil, add up to 20 – 30 gnocchi at a time (depending on the size of the pot). Gently stir the bottom so the gnocchi don’t stick to it or to each other. They are cooked when they float to the top, normally a couple minutes at most. Gently scoop them out with a slotted spoon or spider and place them on heated plates.

|||  While the water is heating, thinly slice the onions crosswise—you can add a bit of the green tops, if you wish. Just before the water comes to a boil place the peas, onions and bay leaf in a skillet. Add the pea-pod cooking water. Cook over medium heat for 3 minutes. Drizzle in 60 ml || 4 tBsp olive oil and a couple spoonfuls of the pea purée. Cook for another minute. Add the mint leaves and give a stir then place the peas, along with a generous couple of tablespoons of the sauce around and on top the gnocchi. Garnish with a bit of grated or shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano and dried lemon zest. Give a couple three generous twists of the pepper grinder

VEGAN OPTION :
Leave out the egg, which will require adding a bit more flour, and sprinkle your gnocchi with this almond meal garnish :

|||  Spread your leftover almond meal (from making almond milk) out on a large baking sheet. On a sunny day simply set out the sun, stirring from time to time to make sure the hot air reaches all the nooks and crannies. Count 3 – 4 hours for the meal to be completely dry. If there is no sun, place the baking sheet in the oven, preheated to 120 ˚C (250 ˚F), leaving the oven door ajar. Stir from time to time until completely dry, 3 to 4 hours. Place in a chopper or wide-bottom blender and grind into finer flour.

|||  Heat a drizzle of olive oil in a skillet. Add the almond meal and cook until just beginning to take on a golden hue, stirring constantly. Transfer to a bowl and season with a bit of nutritional yeast and sea salt to taste. Let cool. Will keep in a glass jar in the refrigerator for 1 week, 2 at most.